GUYANA: LARGER THAN LIFE

GUARDIAN In the oppressive, dead-weight heat of midday, an improbably polite man ushered me through security at Georgetown’s dusty domestic airport. Behind him I could hear the gurgling of a Dam-Busterish, chocks-away type plane waiting for me on the tarmac – I was euphoric. Old-time civility – a rarity almost everywhere these days – is a quality you’ll find by the trunk-load in Guyana. It’s very old school: a bit knackered, louche and shambolic – traits that I love. Continue reading

EAST AFRICA, KENYA, TANZANIA & ZANZIBAR: FANTASY ISLANDS

GUARDIAN It is said that many of the baobab trees are older than Christ; but then all of equatorial Africa’s east coast is riddled with hearsay. Over a few days, I was given the gen on an infamous murder case, informed of cheetahs dancing in mangroves, and of a giraffe who fell in love with a windsock. All wildlife was covered. Continue reading