GUYANA: LARGER THAN LIFE

GUARDIAN In the oppressive, dead-weight heat of midday, an improbably polite man ushered me through security at Georgetown’s dusty domestic airport. Behind him I could hear the gurgling of a Dam-Busterish, chocks-away type plane waiting for me on the tarmac – I was euphoric. Old-time civility – a rarity almost everywhere these days – is a quality you’ll find by the trunk-load in Guyana. It’s very old school: a bit knackered, louche and shambolic – traits that I love. Continue reading

EGYPT: NOMAD’S LAND

GUARDIAN Siwa Oasis has always been difficult to get to. A Persian army of 50,000 men perished while trying to reach this tiny speck in Egypt’s Great Sand Sea. Admittedly that was 500 BC, but the brutal landscape has remained pretty much the same ever since. Continue reading

EAST AFRICA, KENYA, TANZANIA & ZANZIBAR: FANTASY ISLANDS

GUARDIAN It is said that many of the baobab trees are older than Christ; but then all of equatorial Africa’s east coast is riddled with hearsay. Over a few days, I was given the gen on an infamous murder case, informed of cheetahs dancing in mangroves, and of a giraffe who fell in love with a windsock. All wildlife was covered. Continue reading