ZANZIBAR: ADVENTURE ON THE HIGH SEAS

INDEPENDENT  I’m not what you’d call an adrenalin junky, macho thrills’n’spills aren’t my thing.  But when the ratchet shrieked and yards of fishing line zipped out across the waves I was beside myself with excitement.  Adrenalin rush?  I was faint with it… time to eat my words… Continue reading

KENYA: SELF-CATERING BUT NOT AS YOU KNOW IT

GUARDIAN The ceiling fans in Mombasa airport were barely able to paddle in the heat. What air they churned up only served to make the place welter some more, so I was pleased to escape it and travel a couple of hours north up the coast road to Kilifi and spend time in Baumontia House. Perched high on a ridge overlooking an enormous creek, it captured small breezes that came trickling out of nowhere. Continue reading

UGANDA: IMPENETRABLE MADE EASY

GUARDIAN Uganda has had a bad press for too long – reaction to my recent visit was predictably cliched, homing in on guerrillas and gorillas. I guess this is the only place on Earth where a country’s reputation is held to ransom by terrorists and primates – Joseph Kony (of The Lord’s Resistance Army) and Dian Fossey’s charges have a lot to answer for. It’s time to set the record straight, as there’s much, much more to the very heart of Africa. Continue reading